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Coldwater

The creek we hit on Friday came recommended from Mike at Laughing Grizzly. It was one I had read about, but not considered because I wasn’t really sure how we would do on long hikes in the Park. “Long” to me must be different to everyone else, because this one was considered short. I really wasn’t sure our lungs could handle it, but he assured us it wasn’t bad and as long as we kept hydrated and were feeling fine than it would be no problem for us.

We made it to the trailhead at around 8am after a short drive from Estes and found the parking lot pretty sparse with only a few hikers getting ready. Saw more elk and even a couple mule deer on the drive over. It’s becoming apparent that elk are like feral cats in these parts.

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The hike in was about 2 miles and it really wasn’t too bad. We stopped a few times to take pictures and catch our breath, but made it to the barrier falls in good time (much like brookies in the South, we were after the greenback cutthroat that lived above the falls). At this point the trail breaks away from the creek and heads off in a different direction. We were supposed to take a trail to the left, but it went unnoticed by us as a group of tourists shrouded it’s beginning. We of course went off to the right, up what looked like might be a trail only to discover that it really wasn’t. Rather than doing the smart thing and heading back down we bushwhacked our way all the way up the falls on the right side until we got to an area we were able to fish. Shortly after I noticed the well worn trail to the left and we finally had our first “duh” moment on the trip.

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Even above the falls the creek was pretty vertical and holding water was limited. We hit any pocket that looked a like a good place to hide, but failed to catch any fish for what seemed like hours. We weren’t even seeing fish and we hit some good looking spots. Of course when that happens your mind starts racing as you run through all the reasons why there aren’t any fish:

– There must be someone fishing ahead of us

– Something tramped through here yesterday and all the fish still have lockjaw

– That guy at the shop is full of shit and just wanted to give us tourists a rough time

– Maybe it’s just too early here and the fish need time to warm up

Then I caught one, a beautiful greenback, and like someone turned on the light switch, we started catching them. Not here or there either, it was nearly every hole. They would slowly rise to the fly and sip it in. Not like the brookies of the South, that murder a fly with reckless abandon. These fish were graceful, elegant, if they had pinkies they would be raised as they ate the fly. All those fears about catching fish were washed away, Mike was a saint in our eyes, and everything was right in the world (except for the smudge on the camera lens).

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We continued fishing up until we hit a trail crossing, then took a short detour to check out a lake. I hadn’t read anything about the lake, so we thought it could be fish-less, had to check it out regardless. We didn’t see any cruisers from the shoreline, just a lonesome duck. We headed back to the creek and continued upstream. The upstream section was flatter, and even had a bit of a meadow feel to it. Still plenty of hungry cutthroat, but the action did start to slow.

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As the creek began to start going vertical again we decided to turn it around and head out. We had caught plenty of Colorado’s state fish and wanted to make it back to Estes while it was still daylight. The trek down wouldn’t be as bad either, now that we found the correct trail to take around the falls. Plus waiting for us at the car were a couple of cold beers. The drive back to Estes had a couple good photo ops, but nothing like the drive we would take the next day on Trail Ridge Rd, above the tree line and over the Continental Divide, then westward toward the Colorado.

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We arrived in Denver Thursday around noon via direct flight from New Orleans. Prior to leaving a co-worker and I were talking about me heading to Denver and he sent me a link to an article on The Chive about the conspiracy theories surrounding the airport – an interesting, albeit strange read. Never having been through the Denver airport I had no idea, so of course I had to take a picture of one of the murals once I got there. Sure enough the creepiest one was on the way to baggage claim. After that we picked up a rental Jeep Patriot and hit the tollway to head north toward our cabin. We were taking our time as we had a few stops to make along the way.

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First stop was Laughing Grizzly Fly Shop in Longmont, where we talked with Mike Kruise and Dick Shinton about fishing in the Park. I did a bunch of research prior to coming out to Colorado and had some places we might want to hit in mind, but these guys helped narrow down that list and pointed us in the right direction to find the target species, greenback cutthroat trout. Local knowledge will always trumps what is picked up in a book or on the internet, so this stop was a must. The shop itself was very cool and they had a great selection of flies, though Dick helped us pick out what works in the Park. It was great meeting/chatting with Mike and Dick, they couldn’t have been more helpful and down to Earth, really made us out-of-towners feel welcome. Definitely, go see ’em if you’re ever in the area.

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Next we picked up groceries and a couple local beer variety packs before continuing our trip up to Estes. When it comes to vacations & beer I always make it a point to try something local/can’t get at home, so this trip was no exception. And with Colorado being known for it’s craft brew, I knew we really couldn’t go wrong. In Lyons we stopped at Oskar Blues Grill & Brew for lunch. Dale’s Pale Ale is one of my favorites, so I knew the beer wouldn’t be bad. It was cool to see the St. Vrain from the table at lunch, I couldn’t help but think about Gierach, the original Trout Bum, we’d basically be fishing in his backyard. The burgers were above average and Blake and I got to try a couple beers besides Dale’s, but we stopped at one since we just flew in. I’ve been paranoid about getting altitude sickness in the days leading up to the trip, so we made sure to stay hydrated, slamming waters whenever they were available. Heck, I even started taking ginkgo daily because I read it helps circulation. I’m happy to report that neither of us had any problems with the elevation the entire trip.

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After a short drive from Lyons we made it to Estes Park. It wasn’t long before we got a glimpse of our first wildlife, turkey, when we stopped to take a picture of the sign. Sidenote, I find it funny that I see turkey, squirrels, rabbit at home a good bit, but for some reason felt compelled to photograph them all in Colorado. After the turkey were the elk, lots of them, throughout town too. That came as a surprise to me, but by the end of the trip I realized it shouldn’t have. They were everywhere in the Park and outside the Park, big bulls following herds of females, bugling at times. I read about the elk, but I never expected to see so many. I guess I’m just use to living in Louisiana, where if it’s brown, it’s down.

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The cabin was a small 2 bedroom deal, situated right on the Big Thompson River. The perfect size for the two of us and it even came with wolfpack curtains. Curtains that were certain to ward off any curious wildlife. We weren’t sure how much time we’d spend fishing here, but it was nice to have the option to cast a line out the back door. Realizing we were burning daylight, we quickly unpacked the car and got our packs ready to go to do some late afternoon fishing in the Park. The inflated bag of chips was our first sign that there is a significant elevation change from Longmont to Estes.

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We fished Moraine Park that evening, since it was close, we didn’t have much daylight, and seeing elk was still fresh and cool. Meadow fishing was new and different for us, it was something we wanted to try while we were here, so fishing Moraine was pretty fun. The water was crystal clear and the fish hid in the undercut banks, you would see them dart out to hit a passing meal, or better yet one of our flies. We caught a few brookies and brownies, our first fish to hand in Colorado. Top that off with a couple celebratory brews back at the cabin and we couldn’t ask for a better start to a great trip

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Just got back from Colorado, the trip was a total success. Couldn’t have asked for better weather or more willing fish. I’ll post the full rundown of the trip later in the week, first a quick update from Sunday.

Blake and I hiked into a backcountry lake to fish for more cutties. It was a tough hike, but very rewarding. The scenery was amazing and cutthroat sipped well placed dries like it was their job. These greenbacks are the most beautiful trout I’ve ever caught.