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Fly Tying

February’s FOTM is a hair wing minnow. A good choice this time of year as the spawn starts to heat up on our local ponds. It can be tied to mimic both minnows that want to eat fish eggs or recently hatched fingerlings.
Materials:
Streamer Hook
Mylar tubing
Bucktail
Stick on eyes
Epoxy
Step 1. Start thread on the hook and bring to above the barb. I like to use red thread here as a tag.
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Step 2. Measure a piece of mylar tubing of your choice that is about as long as the shank of the hook. Tie it in at the bend. Whip finish the red thread at the bend of the hook. If you have a small whip finisher and can’t tie a hand whip finish, just brush some super glue on an inch of thread and make a few wraps. This should hold it good enough till the next step.
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Step 3. Pull back the mylar tubing and start the thread on the hook shank directly behind the eye. Let the tubing go and wrap down the ends of the tubing. Wrap the tubing down the shank so that the length is equal the the diameter of your stick on eye of choice. After this, I like to pinch the tubing on either side to make a flat body. Then, coat the red thread and the body (not the chartreuse thread) with Hard as Nails. I normally do one coat, but two will give you a better finish. Make sure you let the first coat dry thoroughly.
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Step 4. Cut a clump of bucktail for the first color. I like to go sparse. Chartreuse over white is the best color for me, but many combinations will work. I like to even the tips of the bucktail a little before tying them in. I also choose to wait until all have been tied in to trim the butts.
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Step 5. Tie in the chartreuse bucktail over the white trimming the tips just as you did with the white.
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Step 6. Trim the butts of the bucktail on an angle and tie them down. A little extra wax on the thread here will help the thread from sliding down the butts and crowding the eye.
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Step 7. Use a little super glue on each side to stick on your eyes.
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Step 8. Mix up some epoxy and let it spin on the drying wheel.
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Step 9. Finished Fly. If you are anything like me, the aesthetic qualities of fly tying are as important as the actual tying process. I don’t particularly care for the flared hair look, so I run many of my flies under some hot water and let the hang by the eye to air dry. This helps to get the sleek minnow shape. I’m sure this doesn’t effect the flies fishability, but it just looks better in my opinion. You can see the difference between the pic in step 7 and the finished fly pics. Enjoy.
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Some proof of concept
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January’s fly of the month proved extremely effective last Saturday on big redfish and drum. It was something Blake whipped up after he asked me what he should tie for January and I told him to tie a “sex cougar”. I mixed up two of Kelly Galloup’s famous streamer flies, the “sex dungeon” and the “zoo cougar”, and the result was this. Tied with wool instead of deer hair, it has a good sink rate and is fairly easy to cast for it’s size.

Materials:

–          Zonker strip

–          Webby hackle

–          Estaz chenille

–          Ribbing

–          Spanflex legs

–          Dumbbell eyes

–          Wool

–          Bead for articulation

Step 1. Insert first hook in the vise. This will be the rear hook. I normally just use some cheap long shanked hook because I will be cutting off the point. If you prefer to fish the back hook, I would upgrade to a better hook.

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Step 2. Tie in zonker strip by parting the hair, then two wraps in the part, then a few wraps under the strip on the shank of the hook

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Step 3. Tie in the chenille. I used a flash chenille, but any type of chenille will work. Also tie in your ribbing material. I used some mono.

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Step 4. Bring thread to the front of the hook leaving yourself enough room near the eye to tie in the zonker in a later step. Tie in the hackle curved side up if you can manage it.  This will help make the feather lie back when it is palmered back to the bend.

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Step 5. The next few steps are just like if you were tying a woolly bugger.  Palmer the chenille to behind the eye and tie it down.

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Step 6. This is actually two steps in one. Wrap the hackle back to the bend of the hook. When you get to the bend, grab the ribbing material and use it to catch in the tip of the hackle. Then use the rib to spiral wrap the body (in the same direction as the hackle was wrapped) to the eye. Tie in the ribbing.

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Step 7. Tie in the legs. Two on either side.

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Step 8. Part the hackle on the top of the shank and bring the zonker strip over to the eye. Part the hair on the zonker and tie it down. Don’t cut the strip yet. Whip finish the thread between the eye and the zonker strip and cut.

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Step 9. Mount the front hook in the vise and wrap a thread base along the hook.

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Step 10. Use some string (mono, braid, …) and a bead to create an articulation point. Here I just used some 15 lb mono since I will be cutting the back hook off. If I were going to leave the hook intact, I probably would have used some braided line.

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Step 11. Just as you did earlier, pull the zonker forward, separate the hair on the strip and tie it in using two wraps and then a few wraps on the shank.

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Step 12. Pull everything back and tie in the rib and chenille.

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Step 13. Bring thread forward and tie in the dumbbell eye on the bottom of the hook shank.

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Step 14. Tie in another hackle about an eye length behind the dumbbells.

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Step 15. Do the same as you did on the back hook. Palmer chenille forward, tie in. Palmer hackle back, catch with the rib, and cross wrap the rib back to the tie in spot behind the dumbbell eyes and tie it in.

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Step 16. Tie in rubber legs. Two on either side.

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Step 17. Part the hackle on the top of the shank, pull over the zonker and tie in. This time, tie in the zonker catching in all the hair on the strip. This helps fill in the void between the strip tie in and the wool head. Tidy up the tie in spot.

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Step 18. Tie in a clump of wool behind the eyes and directly in front of the zonker. You can tie in two separate clump, one on bottom and one on top, if you want. I prefer to spread the wool fibers flat, shroud the hook shank with them, then use the thread to cinch it down.

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Step 19. Pull the first clump of wool back and tie in another clump directly behind the dumbbells and only on top of the shank.

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Step 20. Bring thread to the front of the hook behind the hook eye and tie in the last clump of wool. I just push the clump over the eye of the hook and cinch it down with a few wraps. Pull everything back and whip finish the thread behind the hook eye. You should end up with something that looks like this.

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Step 21. Use some scissors to shape the head. Trim it however you like it. Once trimmed, I use some markers to color it up a little.

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Step 22. Use some nippers to cut off the back hook bend (if you want to) and you have a finished fly. Enjoy

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Proof of concept:

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The fly of the month for December is a pattern that will catch a variety of species. I’ve seen it catch bass, redfish, speckled trout, even the overzealous sunfish. Blake use to tie up a bunch of regular crease flies, but we had problems getting hook sets on the spotted bass we would frequently fish for. So, the articulated crease fly was born. To be honest I’ve got no clue whether the articulation helps or not, but it seems to, of course that could just be a mental thing. Whatever the case may be, this fly gets vicious strikes and that is what we all live for as fishermen.

Materials: 

Hooks – Back hook is your favorite, relatively short shanked, hook for whatever species you are pursuing. The front hook will be cut off , so I normally go with a long shank eagle claw hook.

Deer hair and flash for the tail

Bead and 65 lb braid for the connection.

Marabou and foam for the body.

Step 1. Start with the rear hook. Start thread, and make a short base. Apply some superglue to keep the thread from spinning on the shank. Tie in a few pieces of flash.

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Step 2. Spin a clump of hair on the hook. I don’t like a lot on there, but the hollow hair aids in flotation of the back of the fly. Tie off the thread and trim the butts to your liking.

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Step 3. Cut out the foam for your body. I made a template that I use to get a consistent shape. To color the body, I use sharpies and my finger to blend it. An airbrush is another option here. Sharpies are surprisingly easy to blend on the foam. I also stick on my eyes at this point using a little super glue.

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Step 4. Put the front hook in the vise and start the thread. Use the foam cut out to measure where the foam body will end. Stop the thread at that spot.

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Step 5. Attach the braid to the rear hook. I like to put a loop through the eye, bring the loop around the hook, and tighten. I have also tied them with the braid just going through the eye and then tying it in. Thread the tag ends of the braid through a bead of your choice. I like red. I’m sure the bead isn’t necessary, but I like how it looks. Tie the braid down on the top of the hook starting where the foam will end and going all the way to the hook eye. Insert the ends of the braid through the hook eye and wrap them back toward the bend on the underside of the hook.

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Step 6. Tie some marabou at the spot where the foam body will end. This is also probably not needed, but I think it adds a little movement so I put it. It also shrouds the bead. Tie down the marabou butts to the eye. This will thicken the hook shank which will give the foam a little more to stick to. Here, I wrap some lead wire around the tail to keep everything out of the way and tie off the thread.

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Step 7. Turn the fly upside down and run a good layer of super glue on the bottom of the hook shank. Take your colored foam body and pinch it together along the bottom of the fly making sure that it is also butted against the shank.

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Should end up with something like this.

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Step 8. Finish up any color that you want. I color the lips red and finish the gills on the underside where the two pieces of foam meet. Mix up some epoxy (if I only do one fly, I use 5 minute. For anything more, I use 30) and apply to the surface of the body and inside of the body. Put on a spinner to dry.

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Step 9. The last step is to cut off the front hook using wire cutters. Completed fly.

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Proof of concept:

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