Archive

Tag Archives: FOTM

May’s fly of the month is a stonefly pattern that Blake had tied up that proved very effective on the trout at the cabin. Blake notes that “this fly is an amalgam of several different patterns. I just chose the different things I liked from them and put them all together.” Truth is, this wasn’t the pattern that slayed them on Thursday, that was a Pat’s Rubber Legs, a much easier tie, but what fun is that for a SBS.  Pick whichever you prefer, as Blake so eloquently stated, “or you could just tie the easier and equally effective “pickle” and not be as ticked off when you lose one on a snag.”

Materials:

– 3x long curved shank hook

– Spanflex legs and ribbing

– Stretch skin for back and casing

– Black and peacock ice dub

– Bead

– Lead wire of various sizes 

Step 1. Put bead on hook and start thread behind the eye. Make a small thread base and coat with glue.

IMG_0753

Step 2. Tie in legs to create two antennae. Push bead up over the tie in area to make sure that it will fit. Pull bead back, then whip finish and part off the thread. Add some glue to the tie in area and push bead to the eye to secure it.

IMG_0755

 

Step 3. Start to build up the body with a layer of lead along the shank up to the back of the bead. I use a good bit of lead on this fly to reduce the amount of shot that I have to put on the line to get it down to where the fish are.

IMG_0756

 

Step 4. Start thread and lay down a layer over the lead.

IMG_0757

 

Step 5. Tie in a piece of lead length wise along either side of the hook shank. I used a larger diameter lead wire here. My goal is to make a heavy, vertically compressed body shape with a gradual taper from tail to head.

IMG_0758

IMG_0759

Step 6. Tie in two legs at the back of the fly just as you did at the eye. Notice the shape of the body from the top view above to the one below,  vertically compressed with a gradual taper from tail to head.

IMG_0760

Step 7. Tie in another piece of spanflex for the ribbing.

IMG_0761

Step 8. Tie in the stretchy nymph skin for the back/casing.

IMG_0763

Step 9. Dub the body to a point a little over half way point. I like to make a little contrast between the abdomen and the thorax so I used black ice dub here and peacock ice dub in a future step.

IMG_0764

Step 10. Pull the shell back up and tie it in.

IMG_0765

Step 11. Rib the abdomen.

IMG_0766

IMG_0767

Step 12. Cut off the ribbing material and pull the casing back. Tidy up the shank to the spot right before the dubbing starts.

IMG_0768

Step 13. Tie in a leg on either side. Dub around the legs and a little down the hook shank.

IMG_0769

IMG_0770

Step 14. Pull the shell casing over and tie it in. then pull it back and prepare the hook shank for the next leg tie in.

IMG_0771

Step 15. Tie in another set of legs, dub, then pull shell casing forward same as you did above.

IMG_0772

IMG_0773

IMG_0774

Step 16. Tie in two more legs. I tied them more forward facing. Dub between the bead and the casing. Pull casing over and tie it in between the legs and the bead.

IMG_0775

IMG_0777

IMG_0778

Step 17. Whip finish and you have a completed fly.

IMG_0782

IMG_0780

Enjoy, but first some proof of concept.

IMGP8095

IMGP8108

IMGP8120

Bass Bully Variant – March fly of the month

Pattern is a variant of the Wilson’s bass bully, located here: http://www.warmwaterflytyer.com/corner.asp?page=9.

Blake has modified a few of the tying steps and substituted a few different materials.

Materials, in order of application:

Size 2, 60 degree bend jig hook

Zonker strip for the tail

Estaz chenille

Krystal flash chenille

Dumbbell eyes

Pseudo marabou

Step 1. Measure the hide of zonker strip to be equal to the length of the hook shank. Be sure to measure the correct end of the zonker so that the hair points towards the rear when tied in.

IMG_0500

Step 2. Poke a hole in the hide and insert the hook point through the hole from the bottom of the strip to the top. Start a thread base and wrap back to the bend. I like to put a little glue on my thread base to make sure it doesn’t spin on the shank.

IMG_0501

Step 3. If you have a rotary vice, spin the fly upside down for the next few steps. If you don’t have a rotary function, it may be easier to finish the fly by re-setting the hook upside down. Pull the zonker so that it is butted up against the thread base. Pinch the zonker with your thumb and finger. Make a few pinch wraps here. If you want to, you could just cut the zonker strip a little longer than the shank length and tie it in by the tip of the strip. I prefer to do it this way because the extra hair at the tie-in point makes a little smoother transition between the body and the tail.

IMG_0502

IMG_0503

Step 4. Cut the zonker about ¾ the length of the shank and tidy up the shank.

IMG_0505

Step 5. Turn the fly back over and tie in the estaz chenille.

IMG_0506

Step 6. Bring thread to the eye and tie in the dumbbells at the 60 degree bend.

IMG_0507

Step 7. Lay down a layer of hard as nails and wrap the extaz chenille about 2/3 of the shank.

IMG_0508

Step 8. Tie in the flash chenille. Make a couple wraps and tie it off.

IMG_0509

IMG_0510

Step 9. Tie in legs. I used the spanflex legs with two (one folded in half around the thread) on either side.

IMG_0511

Step 10. Cut two pieces of pseudo marabou (wool or any number of other items would work here also) and spin them around the shank, one behind the dumbbells and one in front. I just push the wool over the eyes, make two soft wraps, and tighten them down. Pull the material back, bring thread forward of the dumbbells and repeat the process.

IMG_0512

IMG_0513

IMG_0514

IMG_0515

Step 11. Whip finish the thread. Trim the head to reveal the flash. Careful not to cut the legs. I like to trim mine pretty short. Finished Fly, enjoy.

IMG_0517

IMG_0519

IMG_0521

IMG_0522

Proof of concept:

IMG_1228

IMG_1229

IMG_1230

IMG_1224