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Kayaking

A thread on BCKFC spurred this post on, but one of the most important decisions when first starting out kayak fishing, that a lot of people overlook, is choosing the right sized paddle. I know when I bought my first kayak I used whatever paddle came with it. I really didn’t know much about paddling or that there were even different sizes of kayak paddles. I was just happy to have a paddle and a kayak because now I could go catch redfish in my own boat. Like a lot of folks that begin kayak fishing I was a fisherman first and a paddler second and I still am, but I at least know a lot more about paddling now. At the time I didn’t know how important it would be to become a good paddler in order to become a better fisherman. Paddling is a whole different topic for another day, but needless to say your paddle is the most important tool you have while kayak fishing so spend a little time learning about paddles to know what might be right for you. You want a paddle that fits you and your paddling style.

Luckily Aqua Bound has a website that will really help shorten that learning curve. Their Kayak Paddle Sizing Guide takes a lot of the guesswork out of the process and lays out a good foundation for the beginning paddler. The guide is an excellent starting point for finding the paddle that is perfect for you.

They use a 5 step process to help determine what paddle is right for you. Step 1 of the process involves determining the dimensions of your kayak. Most fishing kayaks these days are pretty wide, especially those that we can stand in. That will play into the size of your paddle – typically the wider the boat, the longer the paddle.

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Step 2 takes a look at you and your fitness level:

  • More athletic paddlers generally want a shorter paddle with a wider blade for the extra horsepower that it provides.
  • Heavier or taller paddlers generally prefer a longer paddle with a wide blade to move their weight efficiently.
  • Smaller paddlers, those who are not into speed or those with wrist or shoulder issues typically choose blades with less surface area; those that want more power and desire a bigger bite on the water go for larger blades.

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On Step 3 you want to determine the type of paddling you plan to do and the length of your outing. Most of my paddling in Louisiana is typically flat water and can involve covering some distance. I’ve done 10-12 mile round trips that often require an entire day to do, the last thing I want is to be fatigued by the weight of a paddle when I need that energy to cover ground and fight fish.

Lakes and rivers

      • If you’ll be paddling on lakes and slow-moving rivers, and spending a fair amount of time in your boat, a touring kayak paddle would be a good choice. Touring paddles are the mainstay in kayak paddles and are good for day tripping, river-running, exploring and camping.
      • On the other hand, if you don’t think you’ll spend a lot of time on the water, you might think about a recreational kayak paddle. This class of paddles is ideal for short trips, fishing, exercise, and shore exploration.
      • When paddling in shallow water, a plastic blade will provide you more durability as the blades hits gravel, sand and rocks. Many paddlers feel in these shallow conditions that a wider blade provides more bite even with half of the blade out of the water.
      • If, on the other hand, most of your paddling is in deep water, your blade shape and material are really a matter of the kind of stroke you prefer. See the following notes on your style of paddling (Step 5).
      • A kayak paddle with an ovalized shaft (vs. a perfectly round shaft) will allow you to orient the blades without looking and will be easier to hold and less fatiguing.

Extended trips on flat or moving water, including sea touring:

      • Again, if you’ll be spending a lot of time on the water, look at Touring Kayak Paddles or Performance Kayak Paddles. Generally, as you move up the line in these types of paddles, the paddles will get lighter.
      • For long trips or for paddlers who suffer from sore shoulders, some experts recommend you choose a light weight paddle with fiberglass or carbon composite blades.
      • For those who find themselves often pushing off rocks, gravel and sandy bottoms, select a paddle with injection-molded blades made of nylon or polypropylene and typically reinforced with glass or carbon fibers. These paddles provide the perfect blend of weight and durability. P.S. A kayak paddle is not a push pole. It will like you more if you get out rather than bouncing on the tip of your paddle to get off the rock you’re stuck on.
      • True enthusiasts typically choose a paddle with a stiff, efficient and responsive carbon shaft. This dramatically reduces weight, allowing for longer paddling with less fatigue.

Step 4 breaks down the types of paddles Aqua Bound offers. I have been very pleased with their products and would recommend them to anyone looking at getting a new paddle. For kayak fishing you can’t go wrong with anything in their Ray series(Manta Ray, Sting Ray, Eagle Ray), which one will depend on your paddling style.

Performance Kayak Paddles

      High-tech paddles for the kayaking enthusiast who wants the latest paddling innovations.

      • Paddles are super lightweight to reduce their swing weight and lessen fatigue.
      • Blades are stiffer to deliver more power with each stroke.
      • Shafts are all-carbon.
      • Ferrules provide more feathering options.
      • Ergonomic designs and light weight materials reduce joint strain.
      • Different blade shapes deliver a different type of experience.

Touring Kayak Paddles

      Durable paddles that are still comfortable after a full day on the water.

      • Special nylon resins and blade designs make them extremely light.
      • Blades are often reinforced with fiberglass or carbon, enhancing paddle’s durability.
      • Shafts are available in a range of options from fiberglass to carbon.
      • Ferrules provide more feathering options.
      • Different blade shapes deliver a different type of experience.

Recreational Kayak Paddles

      For short trips with your family or friends, fishing or shore exploring, these paddles are a great choice.

      • The lower-end of this paddle category is the heaviest and least expensive kayak paddle.
      • Blades are typically injection-molded plastic resin and shafts are generally aluminum or fiberglass.
      • Ferrule is straight-forward without many frills.
      • Durable and economically priced.

Finally in Step 5 determine what type of paddler you are. Kayak fishermen tend to be more high-angle paddlers using more aggressive strokes to get from one spot to another. My first Aqua Bound paddle was a Sting Ray Hybrid and I loved it. I now own a Surge Carbon and love it as well, though I am not as rough on it as I was with the Hybrid. Blake has a Manta Ray Hybrid that seems to suit him perfectly.

High-angle paddlers

High-angle paddlers keep the shaft more vertical during their stroke (perpendicular to the water). These paddlers typically use a shorter, wider blade and a paddle with a shorter shaft. This more upright paddling style permits a more powerful, athletic stroke. Paddlers who prefer to use a fast cadence (whitewater, racers, touring with fast cadence) usually prefer this shorter shaft, wider blade paddle, too.

Low-angle paddlers

Low-angle paddlers keep the paddle relatively horizontal (parallel to the water). Paddlers who use this more relaxed, cruising stroke often find that a paddle with a longer, thinner blade is most energy efficient. In fact, this is the most common paddling style in North America.

Just like with kayaks, there is no sure thing and picking one is a personal preference. The more you try out the better you’ll feel when you commit to making a purchase. Most retailers will have different paddles on hand when they hold their demo days, so try out as many as you can to find your style and size. If you can’t do that at least you’ll have this guide so you won’t be throwing darts in the dark.

I’ve had a few requests recently to show how I mount my camera while in the kayak. If you’re looking to get the “over-the-shoulder” angle that you see in most of my videos, this is how it’s done. You can see the angle here:

 

If you use a milkcrate or a BlackPak or anything else that gives you vertical rod holders in the tankwell than this set up will be simple and effective for you. If not they are different products out there that will achieve the same results. I’ve been happy with the products available from YakAttack.

Here’s how I do it – first let’s take a look at the milkcrate:

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It’s a standard milkcrate that I’ve attached 4 rod holders to. With the 2 that come standard in the Cuda 12, I have 6 total vertical rod holders behind me, which is plenty of storage for rods, a net, and a camera mount. The rod holders were purchased at Academy and are fairly inexpensive. Make sure to install the rodholders as snug as possible to the milkcrate as any looseness will allow for camera shake. Try not to overtighten though because you’re mounting them to plastic, which can, and will break. If you screw them in like I have, use flathead screws to allow for your camera mount to slide in the holder, also use washers on the backside to distribute the load.

Next you will need a pole of some sort that will fit in the rod holder. I use an extension pole that I bought at either Lowe’s or Home Depot. The extension pole came at the suggestion of either Drew Gregory or Sean Brodie, who have been filming much longer than I have and are much better at it as well. The extension pole allows for higher camera angles if I want to do something different, but I’ve found that I just use the lowest possible one because the higher the angle, the more the shake. You also have to turn the camera on and off somehow and it’s easier to reach when it’s lower.

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As you can tell from the photos the extension pole doesn’t fit snug in the rod holder, and if it’s not snug the camera will shake. I wrapped the end that goes into the rod holder with Gorilla tape, but regular old duct tape will work, or you can get creative and figure out another way to bulk up the bottom of the extension pole. Tape is nice because you can layer until you get the right amount or reduce if you’ve put too much on there.

Now you’ve got a pole in a rodholder that’s attached to your milkcrate in the tankwell of your kayak. You still need to mount your camera to the pole. I use a GoPro Hero 1 to film. I got it a few years back and it is still kicking so no need to upgrade yet. The GoPro is nice because it is easy to use, comes in a waterproof housing and has several accessories that make mounting it easy. The best way I’ve found to mount a GoPro to an extension pole is with their handlebar/seatpost mount.

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That mount will slide over the extension pole with ease and you can tighten it as much as possible to prevent slippage. The angle of the GoPro you see there is what I generally film at. With the wide angle lens on the GoPro you don’t have to point it downward too much at all to capture everything in front.

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That’s all there is to it. It’s simple, snug, and fairly inexpensive. I don’t see too much shake whether I’m sitting or standing in the kayak. You will want to make sure that you use the provided tankwell bungees to strap the milkcrate down, you don’t want it sliding. Here’s how it looks in the kayak:

 

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Steve and I set out last Saturday in search of Largemouth bass with a penchant for topwater frogs. We’d heard from a friend that a certain swamp to the west of town held good numbers of them and was the perfect place to try our luck. So we ignored the urge to head to the marsh and went bass fishing in the swamp instead.

It was a beautiful day, winds were fairly light, and temps hovered in the low 90s, which also meant the mosquitos were out in force. We set out around sunrise and when we reached our destination we were greeted with some super fishy looking water, which always gets the adrenaline going. Steve didn’t waste any time getting onto the water. As always, I was a little slower.

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I’m almost ashamed to admit, especially living in Louisiana, but I can’t remember the last time I fished water like this. Despite being surrounded by them, I generally avoid still, swampy waters like this because they are tough to see through and there’s no telling what the oxygen levels are like. However, I was pleasantly surprised to see excellent water clarity, that is, under the duckweed. Of course the duckweed covered most of the surface like a bright green blanket – which is why we would be frog fishing.

Steve got on the board early on with an 18.5″ LMB on a frog and I followed up with a 24″ choupique on a texas rigged soft plastic, which proved to be the only fish I’d land on the day.

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I threw the soft plastic in places where the duckweed was more broken up, however where it was thick, the frog was our best bet, in fact it was the only bait that even elicited a strike from a LMB. Steve had better luck than I did throwing the frog and ended up landing a few, all around 18″ if I’m not mistaken. I came up short on the hook set on every fish that hit. Being new to frog fishing, I was under powered and over anxious, throwing medium tackle with light braid and setting the hook way too early. Still it was a lot of fun to watch the toilet bowl flush and feel a taught line, even if it was just for a few seconds.

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Each of us did have our exciting moments though. I hooked and fought a nice 18-20″ bass for a short while, only to lose him right next to the boat, in mid air – it had my heart racing. Steve, however, lost a true beast.

We were fishing parallel to each other, with some distance in between. I was on the opposite side of where he was working his frog when I heard a huge blow up. I looked over and all I see is a giant tail and a portion of his body breach the surface as the fish leaped from the water, Steve’s line went loose during the acrobatics. It was a very large bass, one of the biggest I’ve seen in public water, “dangs” and “dagnabbits” were definitely uttered.

Fishing the swamp really opened my eyes to the opportunities I often overlook. It was tough fishing and even though I only landed one fish it was still rewarding. Above average bass are certainly there. Next time I head that way I’ll be better equipped and hopefully my stories won’t be about the one that got away.

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