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Fly Tying

We are in full blown Utah Cutt Slam trip prep down here and Blake has been busy at the vise.  We’ve been hearing that the green drakes have been coming off up there in Utah and it’s our hope that they will continue to be hatching by the time we can get up there later this month.  He’s put together a little SBS of a fly we hope to have some success on when we get up that way – Yeager’s Neversink Green Drake – tied by Blake Leblanc.

Materials – in order or application:

  • Thread of your choice – I used 70 denier
  • 2mm foam
  • #12 Orvis tactical barbless dry fly hook
  • Moose body hair
  • EP fibers
  • Rubber legs
  • Dry fly hackle

Start thread on a needle with a few wraps, just enough to hold it on there.  Leave tag end long.

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Cut two foam strips.  This is 2mm thick foam.  I cut them about 2mm wide as well.   Tie one on the top and another on the bottom.  Colors should match what you are trying to match.  Here, I was going for green drake-ish.  It could probably pass for a decent hopper or stonefly with a few modifications.

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Tie in a few strands of moose body hair(or whatever tail material you like) on either side.  Leave the butt ends long so you can catch them on the shank in the next step.

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Bring the thread between the foam strips and advance it a little ways down the pin shank trapping the moose hairs in there.  Then pull the foam back and start your segments.

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Cut the moose hairs(leave the thread tag end) and continue with the segments.  Whip finish the thread on the last segment.  Hit it with some glue.

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Pinch the tail and slide it off the needle.  Pull the thread tag to tighten any loose thread that is in the body.

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Choose a hook you like and pierce the foam near the last body segment.

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Start the thread near the eye of the hook and bring it back to the hook bend.  I slide the body up to the thread location to make sure I like how it sits.  When you’re happy, tie down both foam strips making another segment.  Make sure the thread tag is still there.

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Pull one of the foam strips back and wrap the thread down the shank making sure to tie your tail thread tag in tight.  Make another segment, then tie down the bottom foam strip to the eye.  I find it easier and neater to do one stip, then the other.

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Tie the top foam strip down to right behind the eye.

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Tie in your wing material.  I used EP fibers here.  They float like a cork when treated with floatant.  I leave them long and trim later.

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Pull the foam back making a little round head behind the eye.

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Tie in your choice of legs on either side.  Trim to desired length.

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Cut foam leaving a little.

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Cut wing about as long as abdomen.

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Tie in dry fly hackle.

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Palmer to the head.  Tie in the hackle and whip finish.  I whipped around the eye of the hook, but you can tie off between the hackle and head.  Whatever floats your drake….

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Hit it with a little glue and you have yourself a really buggy, buoyant, attractor fly  that is sure to catch some cutthroat.

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September’s fly of the month is, in my opinion, one of the more realistic shrimp patterns out there.  It is Blake’s version of Bob Popovics Ultra Shrimp fly.  This is a great pattern for inshore use, especially at night, under the lights.  It should be pretty durable too with that UV Knot Sense.  Speckled trout of Grand Isle beware, this fly is coming for you.

Materials:

Mustad 3407 size 2
EP fibers
Mono eyes
Krystal flash
White thread
Loon UV Knot Sense
Soft/webby bugger hackle

Attach thread and bring to the bend. Prepare some mono eyes using a lighter and sharpie marker to color them black.
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Tie in a small clump of EP fiber down a little into the bend.
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Tie in eyes on each side. I put a thread bump in front of the tie-in spot to splay the eyes out a little.
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Tie in the hackle by the butt so that when wrapped, the longer fibers will be towards the back and the shorter around the eye. Dub the body of the fly, including around the eyes. I forgot to dub around the eyes, but I don’t think it matters, just looks better to the fisherman.
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Palmer the hackle and tie off at the eye. I try to get the fibers to lay back towards the bend.
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Cut the top half of the fibers pretty close to the body.
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Tie in another longer clump of the EP fibers. Here i used double what i tied in in the earlier step. The bottom picture is what it looks like when you pull the fibers tight.
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Then add UV knot sense. I run a bead between the body and the fibers and then some in the fibers themselves. If you put some tension on the fibers, the glue oozes out of the fibers and creates a smooth body. I also pinch the fiber to make the vertical and create the profile i want. Below is the fibers under tension and not under tension with the glue applied.
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I added two strands of crystal flash for the antenna then cured the glue with the UV light. Here’s the finished product. color can be changed by either coloring the EP fibers or using different colored body materials (dubbing, chenille, etc.).

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